PROFILED BY DEGROOTS MEDIA - JANUARY 07With an entrance somewhat cramped between a post office and a computer shop, it’s easy to walk past La Cumbia without noticing. However, step inside and you are instantly transported to Latin America. The first thing that strikes you is the vibrant music and, once seated, it’s hard to focus on the menu for the abundance of treasures that adorn the walls.
The menu is divided into Mexican, Peruvian, Spanish and Colombian sections. The tamales (chopped pork and chicken with carrots, potato and polenta cooked in banana leaves served with salad and potato pancake) is supple and moist, and the lomo cerdo a la plancha (grilled pork with rice and salad) comes out spitting hot, with the pork tender and sweet. The pick, however, seems to be the empanizado de pollo (chicken schnitzel with chips and salad). The schnitzel looks too thin but I’m assured this is how schnitzel should be and I agree after shovelling a forkful into my mouth and savouring the mixed spices in the batter. A section of the restaurant is dedicated to selling Latino cooking ingredients and treats, so grab a six pack of chicha morada (a traditional drink made from purple corn juice that tastes like grape Hubba Bubba) on your way out.
Drew Haywood, January 2007
